HOUSING

Cage – Each rat requires a minimum of 40 square inches of floor space and at least a height of 7 inches. Cage material can include wire, stainless steel, or durable plastic/glass. At least 1 side of the enclosure must be open for air circulation. Cage bottoms should be solid as wire or mesh bottoms can irritate feet.

Substrate – Deep bedding (at least 1 inch) with ample nesting material is recommended. Bedding must be clean, non-toxic, and absorbent. Paper pulp products (Carefresh or Yesterday’s News), shredded newspaper or shredded computer paper are recommended. Wood chips and shavings (especially cedar and pine) are NOT recommended as they can cause respiratory disease.

Furniture – Cage furniture (large exercise wheels, tunnels, hide boxes, etc) is highly recommended for enrichment and play. Small cardboard boxes, paper towel rolls, tissue boxes, etc. can be used as hiding boxes.

Temperature – The optimal temperature for rats is between 65-80°F.

Cage mates – Rats should either be housed as individuals, in same-sex pairs, or in small groups. Fighting can occur and close monitoring is necessary. Spaying and neutering is recommended in mixed gender groups. There should be multiple food and water sources in group cages. If rats are kept individually, they should be handled every day.

Cleaning – The cage and all accessories should be cleaned at least once a week with hot water and a non-toxic disinfectant or detergent, then rinsed thoroughly.

DIET

Rat food/rodent blocks – A complete and fortified food should be offered “free-choice.” We recommend the Oxbow Essentials Adult Rat diet. Do not feed mixes containing seeds, dried fruits, or nuts as rats will preferentially consume the seeds/fruits/nuts that are high in fat and low in other nutrients and can lead to obesity and malnutrition.

Treats – Small pieces of fruits, vegetables (romaine, bib and red leaf lettuce, parsley, and cilantro), table food, or seeds may be offered. Grass hay can be used to stimulate foraging activity. Oxbow also makes a variety of healthy treats for rats.

Water – Clean water should be provided in sipper bottles or a spill-proof bowl. Water should be changed daily.

Cleaning – Bowls and water bottles should be cleaned every few days in the dishwasher or with a dilute bleach solution (1:30 bleach to water ratio) soak.

HANDLING

Pet rats become accustomed to handling and will seldom bite if properly restrained. Rats can be picked up by scooping them up. Always use two hands and be gentle. Avoid sudden movements, loud noise, and excitement. Do not pull on the tip of the tail. If children are handling the rat, have them sit on the floor and hold it in their laps. Only allow them to handle the pet with adult supervision.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquire pet rats. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

Spaying and Neutering – This procedure is recommended at 6 months of age to help decrease incidence of mammary tumors as well as aggression among cage mates.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Respiratory disease – Respiratory infections are very common in rats and should be treated right away as the infection could develop into pneumonia. Symptoms include sneezing and nasal discharge.

Lice and Mites – Skin parasites are common in new pets. Symptoms include itching, red skin, hair loss, and irritability.

Skin Masses – Mammary tumors are extremely common in both male and female rats. Spaying and neutering them at around 6 months of age can help decrease the chances of developing these tumors. Abscesses can be seen in rats that are bitten by a cage mate.

Wounds – Rats housed in pairs or groups can fight and often will result in deep wounds.

HOUSING

Cage – While you should provide as large of a cage as possible, the cage should be no smaller than 3 feet by 2 feet by 3 feet and should have a grated floor with a drop pan underneath. The large size gives them adequate room to glide. The bars of the cage should be horizontal as this makes it easier for your sugar glider to climb. The bars should be no more than half an inch apart to avoid entrapping their heads. The preferred cage material is PVC-coated steel.
Bedding – Bedding material should be clean, absorbent, non-toxic, and mostly dust-free. We recommend paper pulp products (Carefresh or Yesterday’s News), shredded paper, or fleece/towels. Wood chips and shavings (especially cedar and pine) are NOT recommended as they can cause respiratory and liver disease.

Hide box – You should provide a sleeping area for your sugar glider high up in the cage. A wooden nest box made for birds can be used, or you may use a pouch made of fleece (as fleece will not catch their feet). The bedding in the nest box should be changed regularly.

Furniture – Numerous branches and/or horizontal shelves should be provided to promote climbing. Many swings and chew toys made for birds can be used for your sugar glider; these encourage natural behaviors such as foraging, gliding, nesting and stimulate curiosity. Exercise wheels (with a smooth interior) should be provided; these help provide physical and mental stimulation. Rotating toys out and rearranging the cage on a regular basis can help give your sugar glider a more engaging environment.

Food and water bowls – Food should be provided on an elevated platform; this simulates their natural behavior and promotes a sense of security while eating. Food and water bowls (several of each) should be placed around the cage to stimulate feeding

Temperature – The ideal temperature range for sugar gliders is between 75-80°F.

DIET

In the wild, sugar gliders are omnivores. Their diet largely consists of insects as well as nectars and saps. Sugar gliders should be fed in the evenings when they are most active.

Nectar (~50% of diet) – Many nectar substitutes are available in pet stores including Gliderade nectar supplement (Exotic Pet Nutrition Company, Newport News, VA), acacia gum powder, and nectar diets meant for lory birds.

Protein (~50% of diet) – Half of the diet should consist of a protein source. This protein source can range from insects (such as crickets and mealworms) to eggs and lean meat. As sugar gliders are susceptible to calcium deficiency, calcium-loading of insects (or calcium supplements) is absolutely essential.

Pellets – Commercial sugar glider pellets can be offered in conjunction to the protein source and together should still make up only ~50% of your sugar glider’s diet.

Fruits and vegetables (<10% of diet) – Vegetables, fruits and nuts may be provided as treats in moderation as they often are deficient in essential nutrients. These treats include, but are not limited to: fresh fruit, honey, yogurt drops, pine nuts, sunflower seeds, pistachios, yogurt, apple sauce, and baby food.
Water – Your pet should have access to fresh water at all times. They can be trained to drink from sipper bottle or provide water in a spill-proof bowl. Check water bottles often as they can malfunction and stop working.

HANDLING

When well socialized and frequently handled, sugar gliders are very docile and easy to handle. You can cup them in the palm of your hand. They like to climb up your arms as well. Take care not to make sudden movements as they are prone to biting when scared, agitated, or disturbed.

SOCIALIZATION AND PLAY

Socialization – Sugar gliders are very social creatures and should be kept in groups of two or more. If keeping males and females together, consider neutering the male to prevent breeding. If sugar gliders are kept alone and are not provided with enough social stimulation many behavioral disorders can develop.

Bonding – It is important for you to bond with your sugar glider. Sugar gliders feel safe in small, enclosed pouches, with special pouches available to carry your sugar glider in. Keeping your sugar glider close and petting them while they are in their pouch promotes safety, security and bonding. You should spend no less than two hours per day with your sugar glider to promote proper socialization. Ideally, this time should be spent when your sugar glider is most awake and active (i.e. in the evening).

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquire pet sugar gliders. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

Spaying and neutering – if you plan on housing sugar gliders together, especially in mixed sex groups, spaying and neutering is highly recommended. Intact males housed together may fight.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Obesity – This is a common issue with sugar gliders. To avoid this, make sure that you provide ample opportunity for your sugar glider to exercise and avoid feeding too many treats high in fat

Calcium deficiency – If not fed properly, sugar gliders can easily become deficient in calcium. Calcium deficiency is very dangerous and can result in partial paralysis, bone fractures and/or seizures. To counteract this, calcium supplements and/or calcium-loaded insects are essential components of a sugar glider’s diet.

Dental disease – Sugar gliders are prone to dental disease when fed soft, sugary diets. This can lead to rotting teeth and tooth fractures. To avoid this, ensure a proper diet is followed and have teeth checked regularly.

Stress – Stress is very common in sugar gliders (particularly when housed alone) and manifests as self- harm, aggressive behavior, overeating, and eating of feces. Stress also makes sugar gliders more vulnerable to illnesses. To minimize the risk of stress, ensure males are neutered and house at least two together.

Respiratory infection – This is common and can lead to pneumonia. Watch for lack of appetite, sluggishness, and “popping” sounds while breathing. If you observe any of these, seek immediate veterinary attention.

Injury – Sugar gliders are very active and curious creatures, they can be prone to injuries. Sugar gliders should always be supervised when out of their cage as they may be stepped on, fall, or chew through electrical wires (among other things).

HOUSING

Cage – A minimum of 2×3 feet of floor space if recommended for small breed rabbits and 3×4 feet for large breed rabbits. A solid cage bottom is recommended. If the cage has a wire bottom, at least half of it should be covered with a solid surface to help prevent pressure sores from forming on the feet. Keep the cage in a cool, well-ventilated area.

Litterbox – Rabbits can be litter trained. Pick a litterbox with sides low enough so that your rabbit can get in and out easily. Pelleted litter, pulp paper products (Yesterday’s news or Carefresh), or shredded paper can be used in these boxes. Do not use cat litter or wood shavings such as pine or cedar as these can cause eye, skin, and respiratory disease. When training, confine your rabbit to a small area, either in a cage or a blocked off section of a room. Put some dropping into the litterbox to help encourage defecation in that area.

Hide areas – Rabbits need an area to feel safe and secure. Some rabbits are happy with a box full of hay while others need an enclosed space to hide in.

Temperature – Rabbits prefer cooler temperatures and their optimal temperature range is between 60-70°F. If air conditioning is not available, freeze a plastic bottle filled with water and leave it in the cage to help them cool off.

Cagemates – Rabbits are often housed separately. If you wish to pair them with another rabbit, they must be carefully paired off. Un-bonded rabbits may fight and injure each other.

Cleaning – Waste and dirty/wet bedding should be removed daily and the enclosure should be cleaned weekly. Hot soapy water or dilute bleach (1:30 mixture of bleach: water solution) can be used. Make sure everything is thoroughly rinsed before putting your rabbit back in its environment.

DIET

Hay – Grass hay is important and should always be available to your rabbits. Timothy hay is most commonly used, but if your rabbit is picky, you can offer orchard grass, oat hay, or meadow grass. Alfalfa hay should NOT be offered to rabbits over 6 months of age.

Pellets – Young rabbits can have free choice alfalfa pellets until 8 months of age. After 8 months, switch to a timothy hay based pellet and offer daily in small amounts. Overfeeding can lead to obesity, heart disease, liver disease, kidney disease, and diarrhea.

Daily Pellet Feeding Guideline
2-4 lbs – 1/8-1/4 cup
5-7lbs – 1/4-1/2 cup
8-10lb – 1/2-3/4 cup
10-15lb – 3/4-1 cup

Fresh Greens – Offer 1-3 cups of greens daily. Examples include romaine lettuce, red/green leaf lettuce, escarole, watercress, clover, Swiss chard, bok choy, endive, turnip tops, and herbs(mint, parsley, cilantro, etc). Dark green vegetable (dandelion greens, mustard greens, kale, broccoli, and collard greens) should be given in moderation as they can predispose to development of bladder stones.

Fruit – Fruit should be given occasionally at 1 tablespoon per 5lb body weight. Examples include apples, blackberries, blueberries, carrots, cherries, bell peppers, kiwi, mango, melon, papaya, peach, pear, and raspberries. Dried fruit should be used in very small amounts.

Water – Rabbits should have access to fresh water at all times. They can be trained to drink from a bottle or provide water in a spill-proof bowl. Check water bottles often as they can malfunction and stop working.

Cleaning – Water bottles and dishes should be cleaned daily or every other day with hot soapy water, a dilute bleach solution (1:30 bleach to water ratio), or in a dishwasher.

HANDLING

Never pick your rabbit up by their ears. The most common way is to scoop under their chest and place your other hand under the back legs. Remember to always support the hindquarters when you pick up your rabbit to prevent serious spinal injuries. If children are handling the rabbit, have them sit on the floor and hold it in their laps. Only allow them to handle the pet with adult supervision.

SOCIALIZATION AND PLAY

Play – Rabbits should be allowed play time outside of their cages daily. This will give them a chance to interact with family members. Exercise is also important for rabbits to help avoid a variety of problems from obesity, poor bone density and muscle tone to behavioral issues. A dog pen can be used to allow your rabbit room to play. The pen can even be moved outside to allow your rabbit access to grassy areas.

Chew – Items such as cardboard, unvarnished baskets, wooden bird toys, paper towel rolls, and safe wood can be given to rabbits to encourage chewing.

Toys – Rabbits like things that make noise such as keys on a plastic unbreakable key holder, empty plastic or metal cans, hard plastic baby toys and jar lids. You can hide treats in toys to make a toy more fun and to encourage foraging behavior. They also like air-filled balls that they can push around.

Safety – Do not leave your rabbit outside unsupervised as there are predators in the outdoors. If you are planning to allow your rabbit to roam the house, you must bunny proof it by blocking escape routes, covering furniture, keeping them away from electrical cords, and removing access to the toxic material.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquire pet rabbits. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

Spaying – We recommend spaying all female rabbits as 80% of unspayed rabbits will develop some form of cancer-related to their reproductive tracts. The risk is reduced considerably with spaying, especially when done early (between 4-6 months of age)

Neutering – We recommend neutering of male rabbits to decrease aggression and territorial behaviors such as urine spraying.

Hairball Prevention – Rabbits should be brushed often, especially during times of heavy shedding, to help reduce fur ingestion. A hairball preventative supplement (ie Laxatone) may be used if this is a reoccurring problem.

Nail trim – Long nails are prone to getting caught and breaking. Rabbits should have their nails trimmed routinely.

Cecotrophs – These soft mucus-covered night time feces are consumed by your rabbit and are an important source of vitamins and nutrition. Rabbits that are arthritic or overweight often cannot reach their rear ends to eat cecotrophs and can result in matting/fecal pasting on their fur.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

GI Stasis – A decreased appetite or anorexia in combination with reduced or no feces is an emergency for your rabbit. There are many causes of GI stasis and if it is not corrected in a timely fashion, it can lead to death. Please contact your veterinarian as soon as you notice signs.

Dental Disease – Rabbits have constantly growing teeth. In some rabbits, their cheek teeth do not meet up properly and can result in abnormal growth of the teeth that can lead to ulcers, infection, abscess, and GI stasis. Signs include drooling, dropping food, being picky, and weight loss. Dental disease is very common and often requires lifelong teeth trims.

Heat Stress – Rabbits are very sensitive to temperatures over 85°F and may overheat. Signs include increased respiratory rate or effort, lethargy, drooling, and nasal discharge. If you suspect heat stress, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

HOUSING

Cage – Select an enclosure designed for snakes as snakes are great escape artists. A glass tank with a secured mesh screen top is a common enclosure. Larger snakes may require special enclosures that can be purchased through a reptile supply company.

Bedding – Newspapers, butcher paper, or paper towels are common tank liners as they are easy to replace. Vinyl tile, Repti-Carpet, or Astroturf can also be used. Paper products such as Carefresh can also be used if your snake likes to burrow. The bedding or substrate should be replaced or cleaned at least once a week. Wood shavings, sand, gravel, mulch, and other natural substrates should not be used to due difficulty of cleaning, risk of gastrointestinal problems if consumed, and irritation to the eyes, mouth, and respiratory system.

Hide/Humidity Box – A hide box and a humidity box should be provided on the warm side of the enclosure. Half-logs (found at pet stores), cardboard boxes, or upside-down opaque plastic containers can be used. Make sure the hide box is large enough to fit the entire snake. Humidity boxes are great for snakes that have a hard time shedding properly. Humidity boxes can be made from a plastic Tupperware type container with a hole cut in one side for your snake to enter. Make sure the cut edges are smooth. Damp sphagnum moss or a damp piece of foam/sponge can be placed in the container. The moss/foam/sponge can be rewet daily or as needed. The humidity box should be cleaned every two weeks and the moss replaced or the foam/sponge washed to prevent mold growth and waste build-up.

Care Furniture – Furniture such as large rocks, branches, and driftwood can used in the environment. Make sure all items are easy to clean. Do NOT use heated rocks due to the risk of thermal burns. Changing the layout of the cage furniture intermittently can provide enrichment for your snake.

Temperature – The enclosure should be large enough to have a warm side and a cool side to allow your snake to regulate its temperature by changing its location. The correct temperature is important for your snake to be able to digest its food. Digital thermometers rather than dial thermometers should be used for accuracy. The probe of the digital thermometer should be placed at the level of the animal rather than at the top of the enclosure. At least two thermometers should be used, one to measure the cool side and one the warm side. The warm side should reach up to 90°F and the cooler side should be about 80-85°F. A red bulb, ceramic heating elements, or reptile under tank heating pads are often used as a heat source. Do NOT use heated rocks as snakes, especially ball pythons, are very susceptible to thermal burns.

Humidity – This will vary with the type of snake you have. Be sure to have a hygrometer to measure the environmental humidity. Increase humidity by 10-15% during shedding. Enclosures that are too high in humidity/damp can lead to skin blisters.

Lighting – Pythons and boas do not require a UV light source.

Cagemates – Pythons and boas should generally be housed alone.

FEEDING

Feeding Tank – Your snake should be fed in a separate container from its regular enclosure. This eliminates the risk of your pet consuming its bedding material (if not already on flat bedding). Feeding you snake in its regular enclosure also risks it associating interactions with you as feeding time and can result in aggression/striking issues.

Prey – Your snake should be fed whole prey items (mice, rats, etc.). Frozen or pre-killed prey is highly recommended because live rodents can bite and seriously injure your pet. Juveniles should be fed ONCE A WEEK until they mature. Then they should be fed ONCE EVERY OTHER WEEK. At each feeding, multiple prey items may be offered. Offer prey no larger than the widest part of your snake. Multiple prey items can be offered at a single feeding. Your snake will not eat while in shed.

Handling – Excessive handling after feeding can cause your snake to regurgitate. Try not to disturb your snake for 4 days after feeding.

WATER

Water bowl – The water bowl should be large enough for your snake to curl up in. Provide clean, fresh water daily on the cool side of the enclosure.

Soaking – Soak your pet 1-2 times a week in a warm bath for 15-20 minutes. This encourages drinking, helps improve hydration, and helps with shedding. When your snake is shedding, increase the soaking to once a day. Make sure the depth of the bath is no deeper than the widest part of your snake to decrease the risk of drowning.

Misting – Mist your snake’s enclosure daily during shedding to help increase the humidity in the environment. Otherwise misting the enclosure 1-2 times a week is sufficient for a snake from an arid environment and up to once a day for a snake from a humid environment.

HANDLING

You should always use both hands to pick up your snake and make sure to support most of the body. Be gentle and avoid sudden movements. If your snake wraps around something, you can unwind it by gently gasping its tail and unwrapping it.

Salmonellosis – Reptiles are commonly carriers of Salmonella and are a potential source of infection to humans. We recommend washing your hands immediately after handling your snake or after coming into contact with fecal material.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquired pet snake. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

Shedding – All snakes need to shed to grow. Juvenile snakes can shed monthly whereas mature pythons tend to shed about 2-4 times a year. Your snake is getting ready to shed when its eye take on a blue-gray color and their scales appear dull. Cage furniture such as branches should be provided to help the snake loosen its shed.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Retained Shed – Unlike lizards that shed in patches, snakes should shed in one entire piece. If your snake is having trouble shedding, a humidity box and daily soaking should be provided. DO NOT try to pull the retained shed off (especially the eye spectacles) and this can cause injury to the underlying tissue. If they continue to have trouble shedding, please contact your veterinarian.

Frequent Shedding – Mature snakes should only shed 2-4 times a year. If they are shedding frequently, there is an underlying problem and should be seen by a veterinarian.

Mites – Mites can be seen on snakes living in less than ideal conditions. These mites are tiny reddish brown dots that move around your snake’s body or cluster around the eyes.

Upper Respiratory Infection – Respiratory infections are often due to sub-optimal husbandry. Signs include lethargy, nasal discharge/bubbling, congestion, open mouth breathing, bubbly/stringy oral mucous, and weight loss. Please contact your veterinarian if you notice these signs.

Inclusion Body Disease – This is an infectious disease seen in pythons and boas and is usually fatal, especially in pythons. Neurologic signs (paralysis, unable to right itself when turned over, star-gazing, and weakness) are most common, but chronic regurgitation, respiratory infections, extreme weight loss, and shedding problems can be seen as well. Diagnosis is very difficult. All new snakes should be quarantined as IBD may take several months to manifest. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling new snakes.

HOUSING

Cage – Each mouse requires a minimum of 15 square inches of floor space and at least a height of 5 inches. Cage material can include wire, stainless steel, or durable plastic/glass. Wood and thin plastic are discouraged because mice like to chew. At least 1 side of the enclosure must be open for air circulation. Cage bottoms should be solid as wire or mesh bottoms can irritate feet.

Substrate – Deep bedding (at least 1 inch) with ample nesting material is recommended. Bedding must be clean, non-toxic, and absorbent. Paper pulp products (Carefresh or Yesterday’s News), shredded newspaper or shredded computer paper are recommended. Wood chips and shavings (especially cedar and pine) are NOT recommended as they can cause respiratory disease.

Nesting Material – Mice like to construct nests to sleep in. Cotton and shredded tissue paper are suitable for nesting material.

Furniture – Cage furniture (exercise wheels, tunnels, hide boxes, etc) is highly recommended for enrichment and play. Small cardboard boxes, paper towel rolls, tissue boxes, etc. can be used as hiding boxes.

Temperature – The optimal temperature for mice is between 65-80°F.

Cage mates – Mice can either be housed as individuals, in same-sex pairs, or in small groups. Fighting can occur and close monitoring is necessary. Spaying and neutering is recommended in mixed gender groups. There should be multiple food and water sources in group cages. If mice are kept individually, they should be handled every day.

Cleaning – The cage and all accessories should be cleaned at least once a week with hot water and a non-toxic disinfectant or detergent, then rinsed thoroughly.

DIET

Mouse food/rodent blocks – A complete and fortified food should be offered “free-choice.” We recommend the Oxbow Essentials Mouse and Young Rat diet. Do not feed mixes containing seeds, dried fruits, or nuts as mice will preferentially consume the seeds/fruits/nuts that are high in fat and low in other nutrients and can lead to obesity and malnutrition.

Treats – Small pieces of fruits, vegetables (romaine, bib and red leaf lettuce, parsley, and cilantro), table food, or seeds may be offered. Grass hay can be used to stimulate foraging activity. Oxbow also makes a variety of healthy treats for mice.

Water – Clean water should be provided in sipper bottles or a spill-proof bowl. Water should be changed daily.

Cleaning – Bowls and water bottles should be cleaned every few days in the dishwasher or with a dilute bleach solution (1:30 bleach to water ratio) soak.

HANDLING

Pet mice become accustomed to handling and will seldom bite if properly restrained. They can be picked up by scooping them up. Always use two hands and be gentle. Avoid sudden movements, loud noise, and excitement. Do not pull on the tip of the tail. If children are handling the mouse, have them sit on the floor and hold it in their laps. Only allow them to handle the pet with adult supervision.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquire pet mice. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

Spaying and Neutering – This procedure is recommended at 6 months of age to help decrease the incidence of mammary tumors as well as aggression among cage mates.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Respiratory disease – Respiratory infections are very common in mice and should be treated right away as the infection could develop into pneumonia. Symptoms include sneezing and nasal discharge.

Lice and Mites – Skin parasites are common in new pets. Symptoms include itching, red skin, hair loss, and irritability.

Wounds – Mice housed in pairs or groups can fight and often will result in deep wounds.

HOUSING

Cage – Aquariums, Exo Terra enclosures, or plastic containers with a mesh top are commonly used for enclosures. Since geckos are terrestrial, a longer enclosure is preferable to a high one. Juvenile geckos can be housed in a 10-gallon enclosure. Adult geckos will require at least a 20-gallon enclosure.

Substrate – The substrate should be safe and easy to clean. Commonly used examples are paper towels, butcher paper, newspaper, Repti-Carpet, or Vinyl Tile. Paper pulp products such as Carefresh can be used, but your gecko should be fed in a separate container to avoid ingestion of the substrate. We do not recommend using sand, gravel, mulch, or wood shavings due to the risk of ingestion leading to intestinal blockage as well as irritation of the eyes and mouth.

Cage Furniture – A hide box is necessary and should be placed on the warm side of the enclosure. If multiple geckos are housed together, a hide box should be provided for each one to help avoid conflict. Other furniture such as large rocks, branches, and driftwood can be provided as climbing structures for your gecko. Do NOT use heated rocks due to the risk of thermal burns.

Temperature – The enclosure should be large enough that a temperature gradient, with a warm side and a cool side, can be created. This is important for allowing your gecko to control its own temperature by changing its location. Digital thermometers rather than dial thermometers should be used for accuracy. The probe of the digital thermometer should be placed at the level of the animal rather than at the top of the enclosure. At least two thermometers should be used, one to measure the cool side and one the warm side. The basking side should reach up to 92-95°F and the cooler side should be about 70-75°F. Reptile under tank heating pads are also often used as a heat source.

Lighting – Leopard and fat-tailed geckos are nocturnal and do not require special UV lighting.

Cagemates – Geckos should be housed individually to avoid fighting. If geckos are housed together, there should never be more than one male as they are very territorial and prone to fighting. Multiple hide boxes need to be provided if there are multiple geckos housed together and a large heating pad must be used to ensure all hide boxes are heated.

DIET

Insects – Insects should always be gut loaded. To do this, provide insects with a diet such as cricket food, rodent chow, or dry dog food. The primary insect used should be crickets as other insects (mealworms, giant mealworms, wax moth larvae) are high in fat and should only be used as treats. Please removed uneaten insects to prevent injury to your gecko.

Feeding Juveniles

Insects – Appropriately sized insects should be offered daily. The length of the cricket should not be wider than the gecko’s head.

Supplements – Dust insects with a calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with no added phosphorus) and multivitamin 4-5 times a week. We recommend the Repashy Calcium Plus HyD powder.

Feeding Adults

Insects – Gut-loaded insects should be offered 2-3 times a week.

Supplements – Dust insects with a calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with no added phosphorus) and multivitamin 2-3 times a week. We recommend the Repashy Calcium Plus HyD powder.

WATER

Water bowl – Provide a shallow water dish that your gecko can easily climb into. It should be large enough to fit the entire animal. Water should be changed daily.

Soaking – Soak your gecko in a shallow warm water bath for 15-20 minutes about 2-3 times a week. This will encourage your gecko to drink and improve shedding.

Misting – Mist your gecko and the enclosure once a day with a spray bottle.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquire pet geckos. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS

Tail Dropping – If they feel threatened, geckos can drop their tail. A new tail will grow back within 1-2 months but will look different than the original tail.

Abscess – Abscesses appear as firm lumps on your gecko. They will need to be lanced and some need to be surgically removed. Monitor your pet gecko for weight loss, decreased appetite and thirst, swelling of the joints or legs, twitching or tremors, inability to close their mouth, lumps or wounds, eye or oral discharge, breathing difficulties, or abnormal stools. If you notice any of these signs, please contact your veterinarian.

HOUSING

Cage – Hedgehogs are very active and like to roam. The enclosure should be a minimum of 2x4ft and should have a solid cage bottom to prevent foot injuries.

Substrate – Bedding material should be clean, absorbent, non-toxic, and mostly dust-free. We recommend paper pulp products (Carefresh or Yesterday’s News), shredded paper, or fleece/towels. Wood chips and shavings (especially cedar and pine) are NOT recommended.

Litterbox – Some hedgehogs can be litter trained. Pick a litterbox with sides low enough so that your hedgehog can get in and out easily. Pulp paper products (Yesterday’s news or Carefresh), or shredded paper can be used in these boxes. Do not use cat litter or wood shavings such as pine or cedar as cat litter can be accidentally consumed and wood shavings can cause eye, skin, and respiratory disease.

Hide areas – Hedgehogs like to have a place where they can feel safe and secure. Commercially made hiding huts can be used, or else a large diameter PVC pipe and wood/cardboard boxes can also be used.

Wheel – Hedgehogs are prone to obesity, so an exercise wheel is highly recommended. A solid floor plastic wheel is recommended as wire wheels can lead to foot injuries due to entrapment.

Temperature – The optimal temperature range for hedgehogs is between 75-85°F. Low temperatures can lead to hibernation in hedgehogs that can be fatal.

DIET

Dry Food – A commercial hedgehog diet or a high protein cat kibble can be fed as the primary portion of your hedgehog’s diet.

Moist Food – 1-2 teaspoons of a canned dog or cat food should be offered daily.

Fruits and Vegetables – ½ teaspoon of fruits or vegetables should be offered daily.

Insects – Live mealworms or crickets may be offered as treats, but should not make up more than 10% of your hedgehog’s diet.

Water – Hedgehogs should have access to fresh water at all times. They can be trained to drink from a bottle or provide water in a spill-proof bowl. Check water bottles often as they can malfunction and stop working.

HANDLING

Scoop your hedgehog up from under the belly and support the hind legs with your other hand. Loud noise or bright lights will frighten many hedgehogs and cause them to curl up into a ball. If your hedgehog rolls up, remain calm, be patient, and give them time to relax. A dimly lit room may help them relax. If children are handling the hedgehog, have them sit on the floor and hold it in their laps. Only allow them to handle the pet with adult supervision.

Salmonellosis – Several strains of salmonellosis have been isolated from hedgehogs and transmission to humans has been documented. We recommend washing your hands immediately after handling your hedgehog or after coming into contact with fecal material.

SOCIALIZATION AND PLAY

Play – Hedgehogs should be allowed out in a large play area on a daily basis to give them room to run around and explore as well as to socialize. A small animal pen is recommended to prevent your hedgehog from escaping.

Toys – A variety of toys can be used to keep your hedgehog happy and entertained. Pipes, tubes, tunnels, ramps, balls, bells, and other small animal toys can be used.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquire pet hedgehogs. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams. Most hedgehogs are very nervous and will ball up at the vet. Sedation is often required for a thorough physical exam.

Toenails – Your hedgehog’s environment does not aid in wearing down their nails and nails can get long and sharp. They will need to be trimmed on a regular basis.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Mites – Skin parasites are common in new pets. Symptoms include quill loss, flaky or dry skin, scabs, redness, and excessive itching.

Obesity – Obesity is common in hedgehogs. Exercise wheels should be provided and food should be rationed to prevent obesity.

Dental Disease – Hedgehogs can develop a variety of dental issues. Signs include loss of appetite, drooling, red and swollen gums, and tartar accumulation on teeth. In severe cases, tooth extraction may be necessary.

Cancer – Hedgehogs are very prone to a variety of cancers. It can manifest as a tumor or can look like different illnesses.

Nutritional Deficiencies – Hedgehogs fed a primary diet of insects may develop nutritional deficiencies. Symptoms include weakness and tremors.

HOUSING

Cage – Each guinea pig should have a minimum floor space of 6-7 square feet. Enclosures can be made of wire, steel, durable plastic, or glass with at least one side open for ventilation. The tops of the enclosure can remain open if the sides are at least 10 inches high (provided there are no other dangers/pets in the house). The floor of the enclosure must be solid. Broken legs and footpad and hock infections are common in guinea pigs housed on wire mesh bottoms.

Bedding – Bedding material should be clean, absorbent, non-toxic, and mostly dust-free. We recommend paper pulp products (Carefresh or Yesterday’s News), shredded paper, or fleece/towels. Wood chips and shavings (especially cedar and pine) are NOT recommended as they can cause respiratory and liver disease.

Hide Box – Guinea pigs like to feel safe and secure and a hiding area should be provided.

DIET

Vitamin C – This is an essential part of their diet as guinea pigs cannot make their own vitamin C. Supplementation can be achieved with an Oxbow Vitamin C tablet or oral liquid vitamin C at 25-50mg per day. Do not use the water additives as the vitamin C starts to degrade once exposed to light and we cannot accurately gauge how much vitamin C your guinea pig is actually receiving. Vegetable high in vitamin C can also be used as additional sources of vitamin C, but are not enough as the sole source.

Hay – Grass hay is important and should always be available to your guinea pigs. Timothy hay is most commonly used, but if your guinea pig is picky, you can offer orchard grass, oat hay, or meadow grass. Alfalfa hay should NOT be offered to guinea pigs over 6 months of age.

Pellets – Pellets are not necessary, but can be used to supplement your guinea pig’s diet. Do not use pellets mixed with seeds or dried fruit as many guinea pigs will preferentially eat the high fat seeds and fruit. Guinea pigs should have no more than 1/8–1/4 cups of pellets per day.

Fresh Greens – Offer daily. Examples include: romaine lettuce, red/green leaf lettuce, escarole, watercress, clover, Swiss chard, bok choy, endive, turnip tops, and herbs (mint, parsley, cilantro, etc). Dark green vegetables (dandelion greens, mustard greens, kale, broccoli, and collard greens) should be given in moderation as they can predispose to development of bladder stones.

Treats – Small pieces of carrots, bell peppers, and other fruits can be offered occasionally.

Water – Guinea pigs should have access to fresh water at all times. They can be trained to drink from a bottle or provide water in a spill-proof bowl. Check water bottles often as they can malfunction and stop working.

Cleaning – Water bottles and dishes should be cleaned daily or every other day with hot soapy water, a dilute bleach solution (1:30 bleach to water ratio), or in a dishwasher.

HANDLING

The most common way to pick up your guinea pig is to scoop under their chest and place your other hand under the back legs to support them and make them feel secure. If children are handling the guinea pig, have them sit on the floor and hold it in their laps. Only allow them to handle the pet with adult supervision.

SOCIALIZATION AND PLAY

Behavior – Guinea pigs are very social and may be housed together in pairs or small groups. If you are housing mixed pairs, spaying and neutering is recommended. Monitor closely for fighting or ear chewing. Solitary guinea pigs need daily socialization

Play – To encourage foraging behavior, try hiding hay or fresh food in little crumpled bits of paper, empty toilet paper or paper towel rolls, or non-toxic baskets. Pellets can be put in small hollow plastic balls with holes drilled in the sides so that they fall out when the guinea pig rolls it around.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquire pet guinea pigs. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

Spaying and neutering – if you plan on housing guinea pigs together, especially in mixed sex groups, spaying and neutering is highly recommended. Intact males housed together may fight.

Cecotrophs – These soft mucus-covered night time feces are consumed by your guinea pig and are an important source of vitamins and nutrition. Guinea pigs that are arthritic or overweight often cannot reach their rear ends to eat cecotrophs and can result in matting/fecal pasting on their fur.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

GI Stasis – A decreased appetite or anorexia in combination with reduced or no feces is an emergency for your guinea pig. There are many causes of GI stasis and if it is not corrected in a timely fashion, it can lead to death. Please contact your vet as soon as you notice signs.

Dental Disease – Guinea pigs have constantly growing teeth. In some guinea pigs, their cheek teeth do not meet up properly and can result in abnormal growth of the teeth that can lead to ulcers, infection, abscess, and GI stasis. Signs include drooling, dropping food, being picky, and weight loss. Dental disease is very common and often requires lifelong teeth trims.

Vitamin C Deficiency – Vitamin C supplementation is critical for your guinea pig’s health as they cannot produce their own. Symptoms include decreased appetite, swollen/painful joints, poor dental development, bleeding from the gums, crusting around the eyes, and respiratory disease.

Bladder Stones – Bladder stones are common in guinea pigs and require surgical removal. Guinea pigs (especially males) with bladder stones are at risk for urethra obstruction if the stone gets stuck during urination. Signs include bloody urine as well as straining and vocalization during urination.

Heat Stress – Guinea pigs are very sensitive to temperatures over 85°F and may overheat. Signs include increased respiratory rate or effort, lethargy, drooling, and convulsions. If you suspect heat stress, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

Upper Respiratory Infection/Pneumonia – Symptoms include eye and nose discharge, labored/rapid breathing, lethargy, sneezing, coughing, and decreased appetite. Pneumonia can develop as a result of upper respiratory infections and can lead to death.

Breeding Complications – A female guinea pig should not be bred for the first time after 6 months of age. The bones of their pelvis fuse at 6 months and their pelvis will be narrow, resulting in the high risk of not being able give birth naturally.

Lice/Mites/Ringworm – Skin parasites and ringworm are commonly seen in newly acquired guinea pigs. Symptoms include itching, red skin, hair loss, and irritability.

HOUSING

Cage – Hamsters should have a minimum of two square feet of floor space. The enclosure can be made of wire, steel, durable plastic, or glass with at least one side open for ventilation. The floor of the enclosure must be solid as wire mesh bottoms can irritate the feet. If a wire cage is used, the spacing between wires should be less than ½ an inch apart to prevent escape.

Bedding – Bedding should be deep enough for the hamster to burrow. Bedding material should be clean, absorbent, non-toxic, and mostly dust-free. We recommend paper pulp products (Carefresh or Yesterday’s News) or shredded paper. Wood chips and shavings (especially cedar and pine) are NOT recommended as they can cause respiratory and liver disease.

Hide box – A hiding area should be provided. They can be commercially made hide boxes, otherwise, cardboard boxes or paper towel/toilet paper rolls can be used.

Wheel – Hamsters are prone to obesity and should be provided with the opportunity for exercise. A solid floor plastic wheel is recommended as wire wheels can lead to foot sores.

Temperature – The optimal temperature for hamsters is between 65-75°F.

Cagemates – Syrian hamsters should only be housed individually as they will fight. Dwarf hamsters may be housed together in same-sex pairs, but fighting is still a potential hazard.

DIET

Hamster food/Rodent blocks – Pellets or blocks can be offered free choice. Oxbow makes a high-quality hamster diet. Seeds are not recommended as part of the normal diet as they are high in fat and hamsters will preferentially eat seed if offered a seed/pellet mixture.

Treats – Small amounts of seed/treat sticks, vegetables, fruits, or unsweetened cereal can be offered occasionally.

Water – Clean water should be provided in sipper bottles or a spill-proof bowl. Water should be changed daily.

Cleaning – Bowls and water bottles should be cleaned every few days in the dishwasher or with a dilute bleach solution (1:30 bleach to water ratio) soak.

HANDLING

Syrian hamsters that are handled frequently can be very docile and seldom bite. Dwarf hamsters are more prone to biting even with frequent handling. Always use two hands and be gentle. Avoid sudden movements, loud noise, and excitement. If children are handling the hamster, have them sit on the floor and hold it in their laps. Only allow them to handle the pet with adult supervision.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquire pet hamsters. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Obesity – Hamsters can be prone to obesity and should have access to an exercise wheel as well as an exercise ball to increase their activity.

Wet Tail – Severe diarrhea resulting from a bacterial infection is called wet tail in hamsters. This is most commonly seen in young hamsters but can affect hamsters of any age. This is a very serious condition that can result in death within days after the onset of diarrhea. Other clinical signs include matting of the fur around the tail, an unkempt hair coat, a hunched stance, and loss of appetite.

Dental Malocclusion – Hamsters have constantly growing teeth. In some hamsters, their front teeth (incisors) do not meet up properly and can result in abnormal growth of the teeth that can stop them from eating properly. This condition requires frequent teeth trims.

Lice and Mites – Skin parasites are common in new pets. Symptoms include itching, red skin, hair loss, and irritability.

HOUSING

Cage – Chinchillas need a large, well-ventilated enclosure due to being very active and acrobatic. An ideal enclosure size should be at least 6ft x 6ft x 3ft. Glass aquariums and plastic containers should be avoided. Wire mesh cages are commonly used, but a solid floor should be provided to help prevent foot injuries. Wooden cages can be used with extreme care as chinchillas are known to be able to chew through the enclosure.

Bedding – Bedding material should be clean, absorbent, non-toxic, and mostly dust-free. We recommend paper pulp products (Carefresh or Yesterday’s News) or shredded paper.

Cage Furniture – A nest box should be provided for your chinchilla. Branches or other climbing material should also be provided to allow for exercise. Chew toys can be provided for enrichment purposes.

Temperature – Chinchillas prefer cooler temperatures and their optimal temperature range is between 60-70°F.

Cagemates – Chinchillas are social animals and can be housed in pairs, single-sex groups, or polygamous units (one male to 2-6 females). However, chinchillas, especially females, may fight when housed together. Solitary housing is recommended for aggressive individuals.

DIET

Pellets – A commercial chinchilla diet (Oxbow, Mazuri, or Zuprrem) should be provided. If unavailable, a standard rabbit or guinea pig pelleted diet can be used.

Hay – Timothy grass hay (or other) should be available at all times. This is an important source of fiber for your chinchilla. Alfalfa hay should be avoided due to potential urinary issues with overconsumption.

Treats – Dried fruits (raisins tend to be a favorite), fresh vegetables (carrots, romaine lettuce, red/green leaf lettuce, clover, turnip tops, escarole, endive, watercress, herbs), and nuts make great treats. Make sure that treats do not make up more than 10% of your chinchilla’s diet.

Water – Chinchillas should have access to fresh water at all times. They can be trained to drink from a bottle or provide water in a spill-proof bowl. Check water bottles often as they can malfunction and stop working.

HANDLING

Chinchillas are easy to restrain and they rarely bite. Care must be taken to avoid ‘fur slip’ which is the patchy shedding of hair when the fur is grasped roughly. During restraint, the base of the tail should be grasped with one hand while supporting the body with the other hand. If children are handling the chinchilla, have them sit on the floor and hold it in their laps. Only allow them to handle the pet with adult supervision.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquired pet chinchillas. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

Dust Baths – Dust baths are important to help remove oil and dirt from your chinchilla’s hair coat to maintain their soft fur. The container must be large and deep enough for your chinchilla to roll over. Dust baths should be offered several times a week for 15-20 minutes at a time. Excessive bathing may lead to eye problems. There are many different types of chinchilla dust available. We recommend the Blue Cloud dust or Kaytee chinchilla dust. Any dust you use should be a fine powder.

Cecotrophs – These soft mucus-covered night time feces are consumed by your chinchilla and are an important source of vitamins and nutrition. Chinchillas that are arthritic or overweight often cannot reach their rear ends to eat cecotrophs and can result in matting/fecal pasting on their fur.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Heat Stress – Chinchillas do not tolerate high temperature or humidity well and may overheat. Signs include increase panting, lethargy had unkempt fur, and can feel hot to the touch. If you suspect heat stress, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

Fur Ring – This condition occurs in male chinchillas where a ring of fur constricts the penis and can become life-threatening. If you see your male chinchilla straining to urinate, produces only small amounts of urine frequently, or grooms excessively, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

Dental Disease – This is commonly known as “slobbers.” Dental malocclusion or inappropriate chewing can lead to overgrowth of the molars (the back cheek teeth) that can lead to ulcers, infection, and abscess. Signs include drooling, dropping food, being picky, weight loss, and decreased stool production. Dental disease is very common and often requires lifelong teeth trims.

Diarrhea – Diarrhea is very common in chinchillas and there are many causes, from an inappropriate diet to bacterial and parasitic infection.

Respiratory Infection – Upper respiratory infections are common in chinchillas. Clinical signs include discharge from the eyes and nose, accumulation of mucus in the nose or on forearms, decreased to no appetite, and a rough hair coat. Death can occur in serious cases.

HOUSING

Cage – Bearded dragons require a lot of room. The enclosure should be large enough for climbing, exploration, and basking. Glass aquarium tanks or lightweight plastic molded enclosures can be used. A single adult dragon needs at least 2×4 feet of floor space (the equivalent of a 75-gallon aquarium). Juvenile bearded dragons can be housed in a 10-20 gallon tank. A top of the enclosure is required to prevent the bearded dragon and crickets from escaping. The top must also be sturdy enough to be able to hold a UV light fixture and a heating fixture.

Substrate – The substrate should be safe and easy to clean. Commonly used examples are paper towels, butcher paper, newspaper, Repti-Carpet, Vinyl tile, or terry towels. Paper pulp products such as Carefresh can be used, but your bearded dragon should be fed in a separate container to avoid ingestion of the substrate. We do not recommend using sand, gravel, mulch, cat litter, or wood shavings due to the risk of ingestion leading to impaction as well as irritation of the eyes and mouth.

Cage Furniture – A hide box should be provided in both the cool and warm side of the enclosure. Other furniture such as large rocks, branches, and driftwood can be provided as climbing structures for your bearded dragon. Do NOT use heated rocks due to the risk of thermal burns.

Temperature – The enclosure should be large enough to have a warm side and a cool side to allow your bearded dragon to regulate its temperature by changing its location. Digital thermometers rather than dial thermometers should be used for accuracy. The probe of the digital thermometer should be placed at the level of the animal rather than at the top of the enclosure. At least two thermometers should be used, one to measure the cool side and one the warm side. The basking side should reach up to 95-115°F and the cooler side should be about 75-80°F. A clear incandescent bulb should be the primary heat source. Red bulbs, ceramic heating elements, or reptile under tank heating pads are often used as additional heat sources. Do NOT use heated rocks due to the risk of burns. A nighttime temperature range should be between 60-70°F.

Lighting – It is imperative that a UVB light source is provided for proper Vitamin D production and calcium absorption. We recommend the long tube fluorescent lights (ZooMed Reptisun 10.0 Iguana). The light needs to be placed over a screen top (as plastic/glass blocks the emission) within 18 inches of your lizard. The light needs to be replaced every 6 months even if it still works as UVB production decreases over time.

Cage mates – Bearded dragons should be housed individually as they are very territorial and will often fight. Adult bearded dragons will also eat juveniles. If the tank if large enough, juveniles may be housed together temporarily. Make sure to provide several basking sites and hiding areas if you house more than one dragon together.

DIET

Insects – Insects should always be gut loaded. To do this, provide insects with a diet such as cricket food, rodent chow, or dry dog food. The primary insect used should be crickets or cockroaches as other insects (mealworms, giant mealworms, wax worms) are high in fat and should only be used as treats. Please remove uneaten insects to prevent injury to your bearded dragon.

Vegetables – Feed a variety of dark green leafy vegetables (dandelion greens, romaine, green/red leaf lettuce, Boston lettuce, collard greens, kale, endive, escarole, spinach, parsley, bok choy, broccoli leaves and florets). Other vegetables (carrots, squash, peas, beans) and fruits can be given in small amounts. A salad can be made by chopping or shredding the greens. Spray the salad with water to increase water intake.

Commercial diets – Commercial bearded dragon diets can be offered but should not make up more than 50% of your lizard’s diet. Moisten the diet with some water. Calcium and vitamin supplementation may need to be reduced if feeding a commercial diet.

Feeding Juveniles

Juvenile bearded dragons are omnivorous and their diet should consist of 50% animal matter and 50% plant matter

Insects (50% of diet) – Appropriately sized insects should be offered once or twice daily. The length of the cricket should not be longer than 2/3 the width of your dragon’s head. Serious problems (partial paralysis, seizures, loss of motor control, gut impaction, death) may occur when fed prey that is too large.

Vegetables (50% of diet) – Offer a salad to your bearded dragon once to twice daily.

Supplements – Dust insects with a calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with no added phosphorus) and multivitamin 4-5 times a week. We recommend the Repashy Calcium Plus powder.

Feeding Adults

Adult bearded dragons are primarily herbivorous and need to consume much more greens than a juvenile.

Insects and Mice (20% of diet) – Gut loaded insects should be offered two to three times a week. Mice (pinkies, fuzzies, and crews) may be offered as your lizard matures. Whole rodent prey is more nutritious and has less risk of impaction. We DO NOT recommend feeding live rodent prey as that can result in injury.

Vegetables (80% of diet) – Offer a salad to your bearded dragon once daily to every other day.

Supplements – Dust insects with a calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with no added phosphorus) and multivitamin 2-3 times a week. We recommend the Repashy Calcium Plus powder.

WATER

Water Bowl – Fresh water should be provided in a dish that is shallow enough for your dragon to climb into and large enough for them to fit in.

Misting – Mist the enclosure and your dragon once a day with a spray bottle.

Soaking – Soak your dragon 2-3 times a week in a shallow warm water bath for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and to help with shedding.

HANDLING

Gently scoop up your dragon with your hand under its belly. They do not like to be held firmly, so let them rest in the palm of your hand with your fingers curled around them. If children are handling the bearded dragon, have them sit on the floor and hold it in their laps. Only allow them to handle the pet with adult supervision.

Salmonellosis – Reptiles are common carriers of Salmonella and are a potential source of infection to humans. We recommend washing your hands immediately after handling your turtle or after coming into contact with fecal material.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquired pet bearded dragons. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Metabolic Bone Disease – Inappropriate lighting and inappropriate calcium supplementation can lead to brittle or soft bones that can easily break. Signs include weakness, decreased appetite, swelling of the joints/legs, and twitching or tremors. If you notice any of these signs, please contact your veterinarian.

Retained Shed – Bearded dragons shed in pieces and sometimes the shed can be retained. Common places for retained shed are in the eyes and around legs, toes, and the tail. Signs include squinting or swelling of the leg, tail, or toes. If you notice any of these signs, please contact your veterinarian.

Impaction – Bearded dragons defecate fairly regularly. If they go several days without defecating, they could potentially have a blockage in their intestinal tract. Please contact your veterinarian if your bearded dragon has not defecated for several days.

Abscess – Abscesses appear as firm lumps on your bearded dragon. They will need to be lanced and some need to be surgically removed.

HOUSING

Cage – Aquatic turtles need a lot of space. Their enclosure needs a swimming area and a basking area. The general rule of thumb is 10 gallons or 1.5-2 inches of swimming space for each inch of your turtle’s shell length. A 5 inch turtle needs about 50 gallons of swimming space and adult turtles often require over 100 gallons of swimming space. Smaller/juvenile turtles can be housed in aquariums or large plastic bins, but due to the extreme space requirements, many people create indoor/outdoor pond set-ups for their adult turtles.

Substrate – No substrate is necessary. Sand, gravel, and small rocks are hard to clean and can cause an intestinal obstruction/impaction if your turtle ingests the substrate. Easy to clean large rocks and artificial plants may be used for decoration. Stay away from rough rocks as they can scratch your turtle’s shell and make them susceptible to bacterial and function infections.

Temperature – Water temperature should be kept between 75-85°F. A pre-calibrated submersible heater may be used. An aquarium thermometer should be used to monitor the temperature regularly. If the temperature is too cold, your turtle may not eat.

Filtration – A filtration system is necessary to keep the water fresh between cleanings. The more powerful the filter, the less frequent you will have to clean the water. Turtles are much messier than fish and other aquatic pets, so you should purchase a filter that is intended for a system several times larger than the size of your turtle’s enclosure.

Basking Area – Your turtle must be able to get entirely out of the water and dry off in its basking area. There are commercial produces such as basking docks and islands than can be used for smaller turtles. For larger turtles, you may have to design your own basking area with Plexiglas or floating/anchored rock rafts or logs. Many turtle owners have “above tank basking areas” to help maximize space. Examples can be seen online.

Temperature – The temperature of the basking area should be around 85-90°F. An incandescent bulb, ceramic bulb, or other heating elements can be used. A digital thermometer probe should be used to monitor the temperature of the basking area.

Lighting – It is imperative that a UVB light source be provided for proper Vitamin D production and calcium absorption. The bulb should be within 18 inches of your turtle with no glass/plastic in between as the glass/plastic can block emission. The light needs to be replaced every 6 months even if it still works as UVB production decreases over time. During the warmer months, you may take your turtle outdoors to bask in the sun. Do NOT leave your pet in a closed container/tank due to risk of overheating. Do not leave your turtle unsupervised due to the risk of escaping and predators.

CLEANING

Turtles are very messy and their excess food, waste, and shed quickly builds up in the environment. Keeping their enclosure clean is important in preventing disease.

Water change – A 50% water change should be done 1-2 times a week and the entire tank changed every 1-2 months. A siphon system can be used for the water changes. Remove your turtle from the tank and place in a safe location (small tub or similar). The aquarium and all of the contents/substrate should be scrubbed with soapy water. Make sure to rinse everything off thoroughly several times with fresh water before replacing.

FEEDING

Turtles can be fed in a separate container of water to help keep their main enclosure cleaner.

Commercial Diet (25% of diet) – Commercial turtle food come in floating pellets, sticks, or tablets. They are formulated specifically for reptiles and have the advantage of not breaking up in water as fast as other foods. Rotating brands and types of commercial diets will help your turtle get a varied diet.

Vegetables (>50% of diet) – Offer leafy greens (collards, dandelion greens, romaine lettuce, kale, red and green leaf lettuce) and shredded carrots, squash, and green beans several times a week. Make sure to remove uneaten greens in a timely fashion to prevent them from rotting. There are edible aquatic plants sold at aquarium stores as well.

Treats (<25% of diet) – Fruit such as shredded apples and melons or chopped up berries can be offered in small amounts. Live feeder fish, store-bought earthworms, crickets, dog kibble, and finely chopped cooked chicken or beef can be offered occasionally.

Supplements – Dust food with a calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with no added phosphorus) and multivitamin twice a week.

HANDLING

Support your turtle with both hands when you pick it up. Your turtle will feel more secure with something supporting their feet rather than “swimming” in the air.

Salmonellosis – Reptiles are commonly carriers of Salmonella and are a potential source of infection to humans. We recommend washing your hands immediately after handling your turtle or after coming into contact with fecal material.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquired pet turtles. Thereafter, we recommend annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Abscess – Abscesses appear as firm lumps on your turtle. They will need to be lanced and some need to be surgically removed. Ear abscesses are common in turtles and appear has a large swelling right behind the eye.

Vitamin A Deficiency – This commonly occurs due to an inappropriate diet. Symptoms include decreased appetite, swelling of the eyelids and ear, and respiratory infections.

Respiratory Infection – These are often secondary to Vitamin A deficiency. Symptoms include decreased appetite, lethargy, bubbles or mucous in the mouth, nasal discharge, wheezing, open mouth breathing, and gasping. If left untreated, a respiratory infection can lead to pneumonia.

Shell Rot – This is a shell infection that is often secondary to some sort of trauma, burn, or bite. The infection can penetrate deep into the shell and cause deformity of the shell.

HOUSING

Cage – Select an enclosure designed for snakes as snakes, especially ball pythons, are great escape artists. A glass tank with a mesh screen top is a common enclosure. A 10-gallon tank is appropriate for hatchlings. Adult ball pythons may require up to a 30-gallon tank.

Bedding – Newspapers, butcher paper, or paper towels are common tank liners as they are easy to replace. Vinyl tile, Repti-Carpet, or Astroturf can also be used. Paper products such as Carefresh can also be used if your snake likes to burrow. The bedding or substrate should be replaced or cleaned at least once a week. Wood shavings, sand, gravel, mulch, and other natural substrates should not be used to the due difficulty of cleaning, a risk of gastrointestinal problems if consumed, and irritation to the eyes, mouth, and respiratory system.

Hide/Humidity Box – A hide box and a humidity box should be provided on the warm side of the enclosure. Ball pythons like to sleep in a dark snug enclosure. Half-logs (found at pet stores), cardboard boxes, or upside-down opaque plastic containers can be used. Make sure the hide box is large enough to fit the entire snake. Humidity boxes are great for snakes that have a hard time shedding properly. Humidity boxes can be made from a plastic Tupperware type container with a hole cut in one side for your snake to enter. Make sure the cut edges are smooth. Damp sphagnum moss or a damp piece of foam/sponge can be placed in the container. The moss/foam/sponge can be rewet daily or as needed. The humidity box should be cleaned every two weeks and the moss replaced or the foam/sponge washed to prevent mold growth and waste build-up.

Care Furniture – Furniture such as large rocks, branches, and driftwood can be used in the environment. Make sure all items are easy to clean. Do NOT use heated rocks due to the risk of thermal burns. Changing the layout of the cage furniture intermittently can provide enrichment for your snake.

Temperature – The enclosure should be large enough to have a warm side and a cool side to allow your ball python to regulate its temperature by changing its location. The correct temperature is important for your ball python to be able to digest its food. Digital thermometers rather than dial thermometers should be used for accuracy. The probe of the digital thermometer should be placed at the level of the animal rather than at the top of the enclosure. At least two thermometers should be used, one to measure the cool side and one the warm side. The warm side should reach up to 90°F and the cooler side should be about 80-85°F. A red bulb, ceramic heating elements, or reptile under tank heating pads are often used as a heat source. Do NOT use heated rocks as ball pythons are very susceptible to thermal burns.

Humidity – Ball pythons are native to hot dry areas in Africa. The humidity only needs to be around 50% normally and increased to 60-65% during shedding. Enclosures that are too high in humidity/damp can lead to skin blisters.

Lighting – Ball pythons are nocturnal and do not require a UV light source.

Cagemates – Ball pythons should generally be housed alone.

FEEDING

Feeding Tank – Your ball python should be fed in a separate container from its regular enclosure. This eliminates the risk of your python consuming its bedding material (if not already on flat bedding). Feeding your python in its regular enclosure also risks your python associating interactions with you as feeding time and can result in aggression/striking issues.

Prey – Your ball python should be fed whole prey items (mice, rats, etc.). Frozen or pre-killed prey is highly recommended because live rodents can bite and seriously injure your ball python. Juveniles should be fed ONCE A WEEK until they mature. Then they should be fed ONCE EVERY OTHER WEEK. At each feeding, multiple prey items may be offered. Offer prey no larger than the widest part of your snake. Multiple prey items can be offered at a single feeding. Your
snake will not eat while in shed.

Handling – Excessive handling after feeding can cause your snake to regurgitate. Try not to disturb your snake for 4 days after feeding.

WATER

Water bowl – The water bowl should be large enough for your snake to curl up in. Provide clean, fresh water daily on the cool side of the enclosure.

Soaking – Soak your ball python 1-2 times a week in a warm bath for 15-20 minutes. This encourages drinking, helps improve hydration, and helps with shedding. When your snake is shedding, increase the soaking to once a day. Make sure the depth of the bath is no deeper than the widest part of your snake to decrease the risk of drowning.

Misting – Mist your ball python’s enclosure daily during shedding to help increase the humidity in the environment. Otherwise misting the enclosure 1-2 times a week is sufficient.

HANDLING

You should always use both hands to pick up your snake and make sure to support most of the body. Be gentle and avoid sudden movements. If your snake wraps around something, you can unwind it by gently gasping its tail and unwrapping it.

Salmonellosis – Reptiles are common carriers of Salmonella and are a potential source of infection to humans. We recommend washing your hands immediately after handling your snake or after coming into contact with fecal material.

HEALTH CARE

We recommend a complete physical exam and fecal by an exotic animal veterinarian for all newly acquired pet ball pythons. Thereafter, we recommend bi-annual exams and yearly fecal exams.

Shedding – All snakes need to shed to grow. Juvenile snakes can shed monthly whereas mature pythons tend to shed about 2-4 times a year. Your snake is getting ready to shed when its eye take on a blue-gray color and their scales appear dull. Cage furniture such as branches should be provided to help the snake loosen its shed.

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Retained Shed – Unlike lizards that shed in patches, snakes should shed in one entire piece. If your snake is having trouble shedding, a humidity box and daily soaking should be provided. DO NOT try to pull the retained shed off (especially the eye spectacles) and this can cause injury to the underlying tissue. If they continue to have trouble shedding, please contact your veterinarian.

Frequent Shedding – Mature snakes should only shed 2-4 times a year. If they are shedding frequently, there is an underlying problem and should be seen by a veterinarian.

Mites – Mites can be seen on snakes living in less than ideal conditions. These mites are tiny reddish brown dots that move around your snake’s body or cluster around the eyes.

Upper Respiratory Infection – Respiratory infections are often due to sub-optimal husbandry. Signs include lethargy, nasal discharge/bubbling, congestion, open mouth breathing, bubbly/stringy oral mucous, and weight loss. Please contact your veterinarian if you notice these signs.

Inclusion Body Disease – This is an infectious disease seen in pythons and boas and is usually fatal, especially in pythons. Neurologic signs (paralysis, unable to right itself when turned over, star-gazing, and weakness) are most common, but chronic regurgitation, respiratory infections, extreme weight loss, and shedding problems can be seen as well. Diagnosis is very difficult. All new snakes should be quarantined as IBD may take several months to manifest. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling new snakes.